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Author Topic: Bass setup tips and specs  (Read 15780 times)
Fran Diaz
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« on: May 31, 2010, 10:07:20 AM »

Pickup Height:

(bass fretted at the last fret)

Under the "G" string:
Neck = 6/64"
Bridge = 6/64"

Under the "E/B" string
Neck = 7/64"
Bridge = 7/64"

PJs:
P Pickup (Reverse or standard):
G String = 6/64"
A String = 8/64"
B String = 7/64"

J pickup :
Treble = 5/64"
Bass = 6/64"

Try to keep the pickup heights even with the body or strings.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________

String Height:

Hold down the first fret, measure off the top of the 12th fret (keep the ruler as level as you can.) take the reading from the bottom of the string.

4/5 string fretted:
-"G" 5/64ths
-"D" 5.5 /64ths
-"A" 5.5 /64ths
-"E" 6/64ths
-"B" 6.5 /64ths

** If you want lower action..4 - 5.5/64ths with gradual increments.

4/5 string fretless:
G=4/64"
D=4.5/64"
A=4.5/64"
E=5/64"
B=5.5/64"

You can even go as low as (G) 3/64"- (B) 5/64", but I would start with the higher, also depends on your attack.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________


NECK SANDING:

Roger said: "You always need to be careful about contaminating your pickups with steel wool dust. Get some 320 grit sandpaper and use that instead. We put a thin finish on our necks with the intention that you could wear through it quickly. To me, nothing feels better than an old neck in which the finish has worn through. There is really no need to put anything on the maple after you have worn through."
« Last Edit: May 31, 2010, 10:10:55 AM by Fran Diaz » Logged

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Fran
NYC UltraVintage PJ4
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Gerard Burick
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« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2010, 09:17:54 PM »

NECK SANDING:

Roger said: "You always need to be careful about contaminating your pickups with steel wool dust. Get some 320 grit sandpaper and use that instead. We put a thin finish on our necks with the intention that you could wear through it quickly. To me, nothing feels better than an old neck in which the finish has worn through. There is really no need to put anything on the maple after you have worn through."
 .....
......
......

The above statement makes me feel much better about the gradual break-in I've experienced with my Sadowsky basses.  I actually have some pretty nice wear on the back and bottom of my necks.  I like the character (look, feel, playability) of them more now!
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maxgroover
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« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2010, 02:48:27 AM »

** If you want lower action..4 - 5.5/64ths with gradual increments.

I can't get the action on my Metro UV70 lower than 5/64ths on the G string as the saddle bottoms out. Neck relief is currently about 0.5mm at 7th/8th frets with the first and last frets pressed down. Do I need to shim the neck pocket to enable a lower action or straighten the neck a little more? I'm not sure I actually want a lower action, but don't currently have the option. Any thoughts?
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Fran Diaz
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« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2010, 03:30:31 AM »

NECK SANDING:

Roger said: "You always need to be careful about contaminating your pickups with steel wool dust. Get some 320 grit sandpaper and use that instead. We put a thin finish on our necks with the intention that you could wear through it quickly. To me, nothing feels better than an old neck in which the finish has worn through. There is really no need to put anything on the maple after you have worn through."
 .....
......
......

The above statement makes me feel much better about the gradual break-in I've experienced with my Sadowsky basses.  I actually have some pretty nice wear on the back and bottom of my necks.  I like the character (look, feel, playability) of them more now!


my necks are also showing this and I love how they feel...and look, rock and roll necks! Grin
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Fran
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« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2010, 10:20:04 PM »



Why are Sadowsky NYC basses shot w/ nitro lacquer? How many coats is ideal to accomplish the desired effect? There are so many contemporary finishes that I suspect were considered in the decision. Is it related primarily to appearance, sound, or a combo of reasons? I'll never forget the overwhelming smell of lacquer when walking into a pool cue shop! Maybe THATS why !   Cool
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RonenTat
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2010, 02:27:44 AM »

** If you want lower action..4 - 5.5/64ths with gradual increments.

I can't get the action on my Metro UV70 lower than 5/64ths on the G string as the saddle bottoms out. Neck relief is currently about 0.5mm at 7th/8th frets with the first and last frets pressed down. Do I need to shim the neck pocket to enable a lower action or straighten the neck a little more? I'm not sure I actually want a lower action, but don't currently have the option. Any thoughts?

Shimming the neck is simple but might not work with Sadowsky necks as for the special way they handle the upper frets. But you can always go back. Just be careful when you pull the neck out - up from the body so the neck pocket walls won't crack.
There's another solution. You can take off the G string saddle and sand its bottom. You can gain almost another 1mm this way. It does take off some of the saddle's mass but I don't think you'll notice any change in tone. This however is not reversible, if you screw things up you'll need to get another saddle.
Good Luck
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bikeplate
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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2010, 09:52:45 PM »

HI

Roger once told me that he has his necks shot with 7 to 8 coats of nitro.   He leaves them to a matt finish and as you play it, your hand naturally buffs this finish to a smooth, shiny finish.  I think he commented on how most players like the smooth, thin feel of nitro for necks. 

Rob
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maxgroover
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« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2010, 11:21:14 PM »

Shimming the neck is simple but might not work with Sadowsky necks as for the special way they handle the upper frets. But you can always go back. Just be careful when you pull the neck out - up from the body so the neck pocket walls won't crack.
There's another solution. You can take off the G string saddle and sand its bottom. You can gain almost another 1mm this way. It does take off some of the saddle's mass but I don't think you'll notice any change in tone. This however is not reversible, if you screw things up you'll need to get another saddle.
Good Luck

Thanks for your reply. Can you elaborate a wee bit on the special way they handle the upper frets? When I look down the fretboard from the headstock towards the body (with neck relief set around 0.5mm or just under), I notice what looks like a slight back bow from around the 16th fret. Is this what you mean?
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RonenTat
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« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2010, 01:17:45 AM »

Shimming the neck is simple but might not work with Sadowsky necks as for the special way they handle the upper frets. But you can always go back. Just be careful when you pull the neck out - up from the body so the neck pocket walls won't crack.
There's another solution. You can take off the G string saddle and sand its bottom. You can gain almost another 1mm this way. It does take off some of the saddle's mass but I don't think you'll notice any change in tone. This however is not reversible, if you screw things up you'll need to get another saddle.
Good Luck

Thanks for your reply. Can you elaborate a wee bit on the special way they handle the upper frets? When I look down the fretboard from the headstock towards the body (with neck relief set around 0.5mm or just under), I notice what looks like a slight back bow from around the 16th fret. Is this what you mean?

Take a look here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kceYhy-Rng4 at 0:54. I recommend watching the full video version although I can't find it online at the moment.
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maxgroover
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« Reply #9 on: June 10, 2010, 07:30:13 PM »

Take a look here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kceYhy-Rng4 at 0:54. I recommend watching the full video version although I can't find it online at the moment.

Thanks for this. I watched the video some time ago but didn't pay any attention at the time to what he was saying about truing the neck at the time. Looks like you have to pay to see the whole video now  Undecided
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